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Rebuilding

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Fitting rubber kits
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Resto & Rust

Rear floor pans
Back lower panel
Lower quarter sect
Dog leg section
Fix a Rusthole
Front guard section

Paint and Body

Inertia seatbelts
Minor body work
Prime and putty
Vehicle painting
Buffing paintwork

Mechanical

Engine mods
Gearbox and diff
Fit Toyota 5sp box
Fit a Trimatic
Fit HR front end
Fit Air Cond'ing
Front discs
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Vehicle noises

  Fitting inertia reel front seatbelts to your EJ or EH

This is a step by step guide including 'clickable' enlargable pics showing the mods required to remove the original style bolt hole from the centre or 'B' pillar on your EJ or EH, and how to put the plate in required to fit aftermarket new approved inertia reel seatbelts. The principles can be applied to any old Holden of similar build.

First of all, with removing the top bolt hole in the 'B' pillar, you will need to cut a 90mm section out of the pillar. You will need to make a very neat hacksaw cut top and bottom through the inner section of the pillar only, and drill out any spot welds in that section also. You can see in this pic here through to the hole on the outside of the 'B' pillar. You will need to fill this hole before welding the inner back on.


Here is the section now laying face down. There is a piece of plate laying in the groove of the section. It is 80 x 50 x 2.5mm. Bend the plate to suite the section. Obtain an inner thread, being machined, or a nut. Drill a hole in the middle of the new plate and make sure it and the hole in the section are all in line with each other.


This is what the pieces should look like once the plates and inner nuts have been MIG welded to the inside. Note the holes where the original spot welds were drilled out.


Finally place your original sections back on the inner pillars making sure you put them on sides they came from. This is what they look like once they have been MIG welded and ground back. With a little bit of linishing and putty, they are totally concealed and if done this way, are strong enough and will pass engineering.


The next step is to put the lower plates in to fit the inertial reels onto. You will find once you have removed your seats and floor coverings that the inner section of the sill panel, just below the 'B' pillar has a lot of circular recessed sections. It is extremely important that you clean all tar and sealer residue from the area to get a good quality weld. It is the centre one of these just below the pillar that marks the point we want. Using a circular hole cutting drill attachment, cut a 25mm hole in the very centre.


Again using the same size plate 80 x 50 x 2.5mm and the same thread nut as before. Drill a hole in the centre of the plate and weld the nut to the inside. This is why you need to cut the hole in the inner sill to allow for the nut to go inside.


Finally, once the plate is welded on with top quality MIG welding, you will see here that it is strong and will pass engineering. The clean metal is the only way to get the welds to be smooth. I only lightly linished the welds after this, just to remove a few slight bumps and spatter.


The seatbelts used in all applications were Klippan or Autoliv brand, and are Australian Standards approved. They are available from Rare Spares, or any major automotive aftermarket and replacement parts supplier. You will need to get a stalk length that suits your seats, so measure from the original middle holes in the tunnel floor to the height you require to suit your seats. Keep you buckle high enough to be friendly to use, but low enough so it cannot injure you in an
accident.

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  Preparing your vehicle - Minor Body Work

First of all I want to stress that this is only a guide, and that unless you are skilled, there are no shortcuts to a good job. The bodywork of your car should be thoroughly inspected to assess whether the vehicle is worth restoring/ painting. Then the old paint should be inspected to see if it has to be stripped back to bare metal or not. Generally any EJ/ EH should be stripped back to bare metal before respraying, unless it is in exceptional condition.

There are several methods of removing old paint finishes to bare metal.

They are:- Removal of old paint by sanding with orbital or disc sander. The advantages are that it is low cost, will not attack or remove previous repairs, and large areas can be covered quickly. Against this, is the inside of doors and under bonnet areas are tedious, having to be done by hand and some of the hard to get at corners are near impossible. When doing the large areas, lift the sander regularly to prevent clogging. Any corners or areas that you can't sand, you will have to get at these later with paint stripper or a small hand sand blaster. If the old repairs are sound condition, and you don't want to remove all the old filler, then sanding is the go. If the filler looks defective it will have to be removed and preferably beaten out.

- Removal of old paint using chemical methods such as paint stripper. The advantages are that it is excellent for fiddly areas, will not damage metal, works quickly on thin paint films and enamels. The disadvantages are that it requires gloves and protective clothing, is messy, for vehicles with thick dried old paint the stripper requires several applications and it attacks rubber and trim. Firstly double mask all rubbers and interior trim, or remove them. Generally the softer and thinner the paint, the easier it will be to remove. Instructions are always on the can, and for most vehicles you will require 4-6 litres. Be careful when using paint stripper as the residue can stain concrete, kill lawn and in general is a messy job.

- Complete paint removal by beadblasting. This will give complete paint removal with little effort, removes rust leaving shiny metal, clean and fast, leaving metal with an etched surface. The disadvantages are that media particles will lodge themselves everywhere, and the biggest concern is rippling of panels. Only use media or bead blasting, and make sure that the blaster is experienced in blasting vehicle panels. The body shell must be devoid of all trims, glass, etc.Whatever method of paint removal you use, the bare steel should be primed as soon as possible. A two pak oxide primer is preferable, as filler can be placed over it.

Used at length in the repair industry polyester fillers are recommended for the repair and levelling of vehicle panels before refinishing commences. Preparation-Clean surface thoroughly with Wax & Grease remover and dry off with clean rag. During all cleaning constantly replace old rags with new clean cloth. Complete any required panel beating or removal of paint. Polyester (Plastic) Filler-Mix as per makers directions and apply. When cured shape the filler with a body file, sanding disc or sander. Sand finally with abrasive paper no coarser than P180 open cut paper or similar product ensuring a smooth level surface and removing all tacky residue.

Next feather all edges (remove abrupt edge of old paint) of the repair to bare metal with P240 open cut paper and finish with no coarser than P240 dry paper or P240 wet paper. Ensure to extend the sanding beyond the anticipated edge of the primer. Note: Polyester or plastic filler edges over previously painted surfaces may lift or fry when painted. This may particularly happen with lacquer type substrates. Bare steel-Note: All areas of bare steel that surround the filler must be treated with Deoxidine or recommended metal conditioner, but do not get it on the filler. Mix and apply your metal conditioner as per manufacturer's directions. Priming-Thoroughly dry the surface to be painted and remove all dust with compressed air or similar. Mix and apply primer surfacer or Hi-Fill primer filler (as per directions) within one hour of the surface being treated.

Overview of manufacturers directions for two part polyester putty which will fill and bond to almost any surface. Sets rapidly, won't crack/shrink and may be painted, sanded and drilled. Preparation, thoroughly grind or sand surface to be coated to remove paint or rust. If dents to be filled are more than 6mm you may require more than one application. Clean surface with Wax & Grease Remover to remove all wax, grease, oil and moisture. Mixing thoroughly stir contents of container and knead hardener tube. Place filler needed for job on a clean non absorbent surface. Mix 1 part of hardener to 30 to 50 parts of filler using a firm wiping action until an even colour is obtained. Never return mixing material to can. Replace lid to both containers. Usable life of mixture is 4 to 15 minutes, depending on temperature. Application, apply a light initial layer with firm pressure, then build up layers to required thickness slightly over filling to allow for later shaping. Allow to cure for 30 minutes. Finishing when cured sand or file to desired contour. Allow 1 hour and coat with primer surfacer. Use spot putty or spray putty to fill any minor irregularities. Re-prime and top coat as required. Clean Up and clean tools and equipment with all purpose thinners. Store in a cool dry place.

Possible consumables requirements are coarse, medium and fine wet and dry paper, wax & grease remover, primer surfacer, spray putty or spot putty, finish coat, all purpose thinners, dust mask, filling blade, body file, rust converter, clean rag, spray equipment, etc. Safety Avoid skin contact and breathing the vapours. If poisoning occurs contact a doctor. Always use a dust excluding mask and ensure adequate ventilation. Flammable Material 3 UN 1133 Class 3.7--HAZCHEM. 3WE

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  Automotive Prepcoats Data - Prime and Putty

Primer Surfacer Preparation-If respraying entire vehicle and existing paintwork is in poor condition remove all with automotive paint stripper, mechanical abrasive or sand blasting. Degrease all surface area with wax & grease remover making sure to continually replace cleaning cloth with fresh replacement. Discard old rags thoughtfully, they are flammable. If only panel repairing dry and sand edges or repair with 240 grade wet & dry paper. Feather any edges with P400 grade paper and clean again with wax & grease remover and dry off. Condition all bare black metal with Deoxidine metal conditioner as per directions.

Application-Thoroughly stir contents with a flat stirrer. Thin one part of primer surfacer with one and a half parts of acrylic reducer. Spray two or more coats as required allowing 5 to 8 minutes drying time between coats. Allow 20 to 30 minutes, longer in cold weather, before sanding with 600 grade wet & dry paper Apply spray putty or spot putty as required, allow to dry and seal with a further one or two coats of primer surfacer and sand after allowing to dry. Clean down again with wax & grease remover before applying any top coats.

Important-Keep hands clean at all times when painting and do not put hands on areas that have been finally prepared to be painted. If this happens use wax & grease remover over entire handled surface. Spray putty single pack acrylic sprayable putty heavily concentrated to enable the applicator to spray-fill any small imperfections or abrasions in the panel work. Sprayed over primer surfacer spray putty has superb adhesion and sanding characteristics. A true time saver when demanding a blemish free project. Can be used with acrylic.

Directions Not for application over base metals. Must be applied over primer surfacer. Thoroughly stir contents and spray using a low pressure spray gun, building up to thicknesses with 3 medium coats. Allow 2 to 3 minutes flash off between coats Thinning not required, the product is supplied ready for use Allow 2 to 4 hours before sanding with medium grade wet & dry paper Apply a further 1 to 2 coats of primer surfacer and sand again with 600 grade wet & dry paper before top coating Important-All areas to be painted must be cleaned thoroughly with wax & grease remover and dried off with clean lint free cloth.

High build primer-filler is a single pack acrylic coating designed to fill and prime in one application. For the filling and priming of small scratches and score marks all in one operation. High-build saves the user money and time as it can be properly prepared applied direct over bare metal. The sanding and adhesion qualities are unchallenged adding ease of use for the user. Very versatile. Can be used under acrylic, enamel and nitrocellulose paint, over bare metal, polyester body filler, fibreglass etc.

Rust converter treats all rust and is non toxic, paintable, completely safe and non flammable. Surface preparation is to remove loose or flaky rust and contaminants such as chemicals, oils or salts by wire brush, wax & grease remover or high pressure water. Aggravation of existing rust by either method is a must for better penetration. Application- light or surface rust, dampen prepared surface with fine spray of clean water. Apply undiluted rust converter using either brush, roller or conventional airless spray. Leave for 12 to 24 hours depending on the severity of rust. Remove the black residual dust that may appear after the conversion has occurred. With the black converter surface dry and clean of dust, apply any type of paint system. Application - heavy rust, dampen prepared surface with spray of clean water. Apply 50% diluted rust converter with water. 30 to 60 minutes later apply rust converter neat (undiluted). Allow 12 to 24 hours for conversion dependent on severity of rust. Remove black residual dust with water or air, allow surface to dry and overcoat with any type of paint system. Coverage Ten to 15 sq metres per litre.

NOTE: When using rust converter only pour into plastic container if brush or roller is used. Do not return unused contents to original container. Rust converter has an indefinite shelf life allowing unused product to be stored until use is required at a later date.

ETCH PRIMER is a single pack primer that must be used on all non-ferrous metals (except gal or zincaneal). Superior adhesion qualities to all smooth metal. Top restorers use this product on all metals prior to primer surfacer, thus helping to prevent paint chips due to minor stone abrasion. Available aerosol or bulk.

FLEX AGENT is an additive for automotive paints to help prevent lifting on flexing panels.

BUMPER PRIME: This flexible primer is a must for all plastic components on motor vehicles such as flares, bumper bars, grills, etc. Unlike normal primers, Bumper Prime has extra flexibility and superb adhesion qualities to prepared plastics.

BUMPER COAT: One pack acrylic finish coat that remains flexible for overcoating Bumper Prime on all plastic accessories e.g. Bumpers, flares, etc.

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  Optical orgasms - Vehicle Painting

Assuming that you have had all of the body work completed. Here is a guide to what you will require to achieve painting a vehicle yourself. Read here about the acrylic and two pack information.

www.oldholden.com/possible/index.php/Acrylic_Vs_2_Pak

A clean and dust free work environment when spraying, well away from children, pets and heat sources. Efficient and clean spray equipment and tools. A continuous supply of clean rags and tack rags for wiping down surfaces to be painted. Do not re-use rags over and over. Always use regulation spray masks, not dust masks. Ample ventilation. A clean project (vehicle) free from grease, dust, hand marks, etc. prior to application of any coatings. Do not use bargain store tools. Spend extra time on all stages of project, do not set unachievable time targets. Read all manufacturers carefully prepared data before proceeding. You can do it! Take the challenge, you won't believe the satisfaction and the money saved.

It is strongly recommended that the use of high quality sprayguns and painting accessories when applying any high performance paint coating such as are detailed in all manufacturers data. So called "Bargain Store" units, old worn guns, etc are to be avoided completely. If your gun/parts supplier cannot offer a 12 months warranty or 12 months replacement warranty, the quality should be challenged.

I won't go into detail of the advantages and disadvantages of acrylic and two pak enamel, but for a home painter I will talk about acrylic here. The putty, say a two pak hi fill should be baked or left for a month or two to cure totally, so you end up with very minimal shrinkback at a later date. The final rubbed back product should be 600 grit wet for acylic finishes or 800 grit wet for two pak enamel.

Acrylic has an ease of application for anyone demanding a showroom appearance. Finish coats are available in all manufacturers coded colours. Available in metallic and pearl coatings. No messy two-pack mixing. No baking required unlike two-pack automotive finishes. Thoroughly recommended for the backyard enthusiast or restorer.

Description & Directions - If you are using a premium quality single pack acrylic lacquer you will get excellent gloss direct from the gun. Formulated for the repair or refinishing of all vehicles. that have been previously finished in baked enamels, acrylic lacquers and baked acrylic lacquers. Unlike many automotive lacquers no thinners are added at the point of colour mixing, allowing a more generous paint coverage when applied. A compressor unit producing 8CFM or more is required to apply successfully. Use premium or AAA thinners when thinning. Do not apply over nitrocellulose lacquers or air drying enamels.

The paint should be thourougly stirred. If you are using metallics or pearls, when you think the paint is fully stirred, then you should stir for a few more minutes so the constituents of the can are evenly stirred. Buy your thinners in a drum with a tap so the job is a lot easier. You will need about three times more thinner than paint/ primer so that you have extra for cleaning etc. Only buy the best premium grade thinners, as the results will be worth it. Always use the recommended thinning ratio of paint to thinner. Don't fill the pot to the very top though, as it may leak out as you paint. A retarder should be used in very hot and humid conditions.

Most finishes require 45-50 psi at the gun, so set your regulator for about 25% more. Always use a filter/ regulator on the compressor. Most standard finishing guns can spray primers, colour coats, clear etc. Check the sealing washer between the pot and the gun doesn't leak. If so replace. Beware of hired or loaned guns. With a spraygun you will get what you pay for, but make sure you are getting the right gun for your needs. Maybe get a spraypainter friend to help you choose one. Check the two adjusters for fan and material work by screwing them in and out, and noticing the change in the spray pattern. High pressure will create heavy overspray, paint waste and orange peel or spatter finish. Spray pattern length around 9-12 inches. Gun-around 8 inches from work surface. Practice on a sample panel to get the feel of these adjustments. If you have never painted before, it will take a lot of practice to get the hang of it. If it is only a quick respray on an old bomb, then all the better to practice on.

Apply three double header coats, allowing 10 minutes dry time between coats. Each coat should be extended beyond the edge of the previous coat and blended into surrounding finish. Paint about eight coats of colour, making the last couple really wet. Mist coat to assist the blend. Any metallic colours should be allowed one hour drying under normal conditions prior to application of up to two double header coats of clear acrylic. Can also be applied over the normal solid colour range to add extra depth of colour and protection.

Always clean the gun by running through about 30 seconds of thinners. These thinners can be sprayed onto a rag to clean the outside of the gun. Remember clean, clean, clean. At the end of the day you will only get out of the job what you put into it. Let the paint dry for a couple of days at least, preferably a couple of weeks, and you are ready for cutting and polishing. There you have it.

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  Handy hints when cutting and polishing paint

SAFETY · Use approved implements for elevating yourself. Buckets and cheap step ladders can tip or slide on slick concrete, especially when there's a lot of oil or polish on the ground.
· Wear eye protection
· Use a rounded object to clean your pads, not sharp objects like screwdrivers, etc.
· Keep electrical tools away from standing water
· Stay within recommended RPMs when buffing

BUFFING TECHNIQUES
· Paint preparation is vital, not only to the outcome, but to the ease of buffing as well. Rub with 1200 wet with soapy water to remove 'peel', dryness, blemishes and dust. Give the car a good wash afterwards
· Use sandpaper that will meet the minimum to get the job done. Stronger paper may cut faster, its also harder to buff out.
· Experiment with the right combination of sandpaper, buffing pads and overall timing of the buff.
· Use plenty of water when colour sanding. Allowing grit and particles to suspend on the paint can damage it.
· Work buffer right to left over blobs or bead of polish and/or compound. Start slightly on edge then finish flat. Working smaller areas, keep your pace uniform and in "rhythm".
· Let the weight of the buffer and polish do most of the work. Don't wear yourself out. Work with the buffer, not against it. Keep the buffer in motion to avoid burning.
· Work the car from right to left and don't follow the wheel lip mouldings, you will turn the buffer upside down and eat the cord.
· Watch for pad grabbers like antennas, windshield wipers and emblems. The cautious approach is the best approach, mask or remove where possible. Have you ever seen a windscreen wiper fly?
· Avoid or mask rubberised body side mouldings, you can burn them or stain them.
· Avoid edges by masking or working parallel with the buffer wheel. Work close but not over unless you have a good touch.

REDUCING SWIRL
· Minimize swirl by keeping pads clean. Spur (touch with non sharp object whilst spinning) wool pads frequently, wash and air dry occasionally. Soak foam pads in warm water and wring dry.
· Very important to keep pads clean and not cross contaminate pads. Tolerance for used or dirty pads is very low.
· Keep pads separate. Compound is a gritty material, do not use the same pad when finishing.
· Match the right pad to the right polishing material. Save time by spot buffing a small area and check results. There are many pad compositions, experiment with the least aggressive and work up to the most aggressive, if needed.
· Lower RPMs means less friction, less friction means less heat build-up. Try to stay between 1750-2400 RPM when compounding and between 1400-1750 RPM when finishing.
· After compounding, wash the car. This eliminates excess grit prior to finishing. When finishing with a polish or glaze, don't buff dry. Leave a little material on the car, without it, you create friction. A final hand or orbital wax will clean up any residue.

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EH Holden Car Club of Victoria Inc.
P O Box 4364
Ringwood VIC 3134

 Email: ehccv@ehholden.com.au
 
© 2000 EH Holden Car Club Vic. Inc.